Despite its millions of recipes, the internet hasn’t killed cookbooks. Instead, the genre’s fans seem more motivated than ever to collect and use them — and not just for making dinner. For some, they’re bedside reading. For othersdct casino, they’re design objects. A cookbook can be a work of cultural anthropology, a historical record, an instruction manual and a vehicle for armchair travel. But what makes a cookbook great? In trying to compile T’s list of the 25 most essential examples written in English over the past 100 years, we prioritized influence — how has a book affected the way we eat, cook, think, talk, photograph and write about food?
Our process started with a long list of about fifty titles nominated by five experts. Dawn Davis, 59, is the founding publisher of 37 Ink, an imprint of Simon & Schuster, and, from 2020 until 2023, was the editor in chief of Bon Appétit and Epicurious. Samin Nosrat, 45, is the best-selling author of 2017’s “Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat” — a title nominated by several panelists, though we decided that books written or edited by anyone in the group were disqualified. Brooks Headley, 52, wrote 2018’s “Superiority Burger Cookbook,” a collection of recipes from his popular vegetarian restaurant in New York’s East Village as well as “Brooks Headley’s Fancy Desserts” (2014), inspired by his career as a pastry chef, most recently at New York’s Del Posto. Ligaya Mishan, 54, writes about food for T and The New York Times and cowrote with the chef Angela Dimayuga the 2021 cookbook “Filipinx,” which explored the cuisine of the Philippine diaspora. And Ken Concepcion, 50, is a co-owner of the Los Angeles cookbook shop Now Serving, which he opened in 2017 with his wife, Michelle Mungcal, after two decades cooking in fine-dining restaurants.
ImageThe panel, clockwise from top left: T Contributing Editor Jenny Comita; T Contributing Writer Ligaya Mishan; Ken Concepcion, co-owner of Now Serving in Los Angeles; author and chef Samin Nosrat; chef and owner of New York’s Superiority Burger, Brooks Headley; editor and publisher Dawn Davis.Their choices spanned many global culinary traditions, writing styles and formats, but the group was especially drawn toward older titles. “It would take a lot for something that’s come out in the past 10 years to be considered influential,” Nosrat argued. “It hasn’t had the time to permeate.” The long list was also notable for its omissions. As Davis said, “It’s interesting that we don’t have Ina Garten or Martha Stewart here. At one time those two women really were dominant on the best-seller lists.”
Earlier this fall, the panelists met virtually to winnow down their choices, spending almost three hours making the case for their nominations, swapping favorite recipes and discovering new titles to add to their collections. What follows are excerpts from the conversation as well as the final list — unranked and presented in the order in which entries were discussed — of the 25 most influential. — Jenny Comita
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